The Road Trip to Delhi From Pondicherry

7 Days, 7 States, 2 Union Territories, 3000 km, and an Ignis

The Trip: Pondicherry to Delhi

Auroville, Tamil Nadu - An experimental tree house

A unique community that celebrates humanity, spirituality, creativity, and technology. The 'No nation, no religion' concept intrigued me. An absolute visit if near Pondicherry.

Pulicat Bird Sanctuary, Andhra Pradesh - A flamboyance of Greater Flamingoes

The second-largest saltwater lake/lagoon in India. One of the best places to bird watch especially thousands of 'Greater Flamingoes'

Aundha, Maharastra - Aundha Nagnath Jyotirling Temple

Considered the 8th of the 12 Jyotirlingas. This beautiful stone-carved temple is a popular pilgrim destination for devotees of Lord Shiva. The main sanctum is located in an underground cave. Photography is prohibited inside the complex.

Aurangabad, Maharastra  - Bibi Ka Maqbara

One of the only two edifices commissioned by Moghul Emperor Aurangzeb. Bibi ka Maqbara is a tomb built in memory of his beloved wife Dilras Banu Begum.

Ellora, Maharastra - Ellora Caves

Unesco heritage site, Ellora, is a spectacular complex of rock-cut cave temples built from 600 to 1000 CE.

Fardapur, Maharashtra - Ajanta Fresco in Cave I

About 100 km away from Ellora is the Ajanta Caves complex. This UNESCO heritage site is home to some of the finest rock paintings of the ancient world. These caves date back to the 2nd to 6th century BC.

Mandhata, Madhya Pradesh - Omkareshwar Temple

Omkareshwar is considered the 4th of the 12 Jyotirlingas. Located on an island named Mandhata on the banks of river Narmada

Jhalawar, Rajasthan - Gagron Fort

The Gagron Fort is a picturesque island fort accessible through a bridge that gets submerged during the monsoons as seen in the photograph above

Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh - Gwalior Fort

It is said the architectural planning and the structure of the Gwalior fort are so strong that no attacks on the fort were successful 

Most of the roads were well-maintained and scenic. Pondicherry to Nizamabad has good connectivity to National highways. We faced the dilapidated roads once we entered Maharashtra. Nizamabad to Aundha, Aundha to Aurangabad, Ellora to Ajanta, and Ajanta to Burhanpur were terrible stretches. Barwaha, Madhya Pradesh to Delhi is well connected by well-maintained National Highways. 

Abhaneri: Off The Beaten Track

This small village was once Abha Nagari, the city of radiance, established by Raja Chand. With the changing seasons and the turn of tides, Abha Nagari became Abhaneri and was gradually forgotten. Years and years later some explorers rediscovered it while trying to find ancient step wells and still some years later some Hollywood and Bollywood movies brought it back on the map of tourist destinations.

Chand Baori, one of the largest and deepest step wells in India and perhaps the world

LOCATION

Country: India
State: Rajasthan
Closest City:  Jaipur

HOW TO REACH

Abhaneri is located approximately 95 km from Jaipur and approximately 250 km from New Delhi. Hardcore bag packers can take a bus from Delhi or Jaipur.

We took a personal vehicle from Jaipur to Delhi and on the way we stopped by Abhaneri.  With more time in hand, one can include Bhangarh and Sariska in the itinerary.  (Click for Bhangarh post)

From Jaipur one has to take NH11 (Jaipur-Agra highway) towards Dausa and drive to the toll gate at Sikandar, Rajasthan. Abhaneri is about 3 4 kms from Sikandar-Alwar toll gate. Most people know about the Baori and finding the place is not a difficult task. The village is very small and the only two noticeable places there are the ruins of the Baori and Harshat Mata temple.

Leaving Jaipur, heading towards Dausa through the Aravallis. The road is flanked by old havelis.

The step well is almost 100ft deep, 13 stories down with 3500 steps (source: Wikipedia)

Step wells were prominent in western India, southern India, and some parts of Pakistan. The wells also known as Baori, Baoli, and Vav in the local language were mainly constructed in (but not limited to) places with water scarcity. The steps were used for access and regular maintenance of the wells. Some wells had religious significance and were constructed within temple complexes with exquisite carvings of deities while some were meant for private or public bathing or for social gatherings much like the Roman baths. 

Chand Baori was built as a part of the Harshat Mata temple complex by Raja Chand. The Well came into prominence after it made cameo appearances in some Hindi and English movies (The Dark Knight Rises, the Fall, Paheli to name a few). 

The tessellation gets the head spinning :P

Restoration work is currently on (march 2016) and entering the well is strictly prohibited. There are steps on three sides and the fourth side has various chambers and terraces. Some suggest it was a temple while others say they were chambers for the kings and queens. 

The Harshat Mata (goddess of happiness) Temple stands adjacent to the Baori

This 8th or 9th-century Maha-maru-style temple was also built by Raja Chanda of the Chahamana dynasty of Nikumba Rajputs. Its most beautiful part once upon a time was the internal dome adorned with delicate carvings but today it's fallen apart and restoration work is in process. Its plinth still has some beautiful artwork.

Rajasthan was once addressed as Maru-desh or the land (desh) of desert (maru), hence the architectural style that evolved in this part of western India in the early medieval era was called the Maha-maru style. 'In this style, the temple body is treated as though it is a monolithic mass sculpted out from living rock. Its decorations are reminiscent of those possible in a brick-and-stucco tradition; they seem appliqué-like, with the carved ornamentation clothing the temple under a richly embroidered veil'. (source)

Mandawa: Still Trying To Survive; Flaunts Its Rajwada Days

Flying through times immemorial

Mandawa is a tiny village town in northeastern Rajasthan. Had it not been for PK and Bajrangi Bhaijaan (two Hindi blockbusters of recent years) and my Aunt who suggested it, I would have, perhaps, never known about its existence. The village town showcases a blend of Moghul and Rajasthani art and ostentatious havelis, many of which have been turned into heritage hotels, while many are dilapidated and lost to the pressures of changing times. PS: (Rajwada (royal abode) is a Marathi word..a more appropriate Rajasthani term is 'Haveli')

A Whited throated Kingfisher greeted us on the way near Jhunjhunu. There are three suggested routes on Google Maps. We took NH8, via Gurgaon, bhiwadi, neemrana, narnaul, jhunjhunu. Preferably avoid this route. The road through Narnaul village is pretty bad and the entire travel took us more than 6 tedious hours.

Some sunsets  are unforgettable... the sanguine sky as we entered Mandawa

A Good Misty Morning To Mr. Crow at the Desert and Dunes resort in Mandawa

Not yet deserted but neglected....we spent the day haveli hopping 

The once upon a time rich flamboyant havelis, cry the tales of deprivation and penury

While the affluent owners have moved to bigger cities leaving behind their once grand havelis to fend for their fate, the poorer ones continue to live under the shadows of old glory 

Looking for open doors

Mandawa Haveli to Heritage Hotel

Keeping the tradition alive - Grandma embellishing lac bangles

For sale - A piece of history

The Mandawa Royal Palace - A heritage hotel but on the higher end. A day tariff starts from 10k 

As development encroached!

The terrace line

The central courtyard

An age-old method of keeping water cold

Vibrant with colors, puppets, and paintings  

Detailed paintings found their way under sills as well

We had a scrumptious Rajasthani meal here. Interesting to know. The cook went to the market after taking the order. The food was prepared fresh. They served it after 2 hours but tasty nevertheless. 

The end of the weekend getaway

The DDLJ 'Sarson ke khet' - Long stretches of mustard fields mesmerize

The end of a beautiful weekend - heading back 

The journey should take about 5 hours without traffic and bad roads.  The Narnaul route took us more than 6 hrs but the beautiful mustard fields made it worthwhile.

The Story Of The Haunted (?) Fort Of Bhangarh

The Market Place of Yesteryear

The word haunted sends shivers yet excites. I like to believe there are no spirits, yet I am every bit scared.  Right now! at this wee hour of the morning,  typing about Bhangarh and reading the various related stories on the internet is giving me goosebumps. I am told the subnatural/supernatural is most active at 3 a.m. Guess what? It is 3 a.m. on my clock! And that's spooking me :)

So, Bhangarh's USP is its disrepute reputation of being haunted. Unfortunately or perhaps fortunately,  we didn't see any bhoot pret petni pishach shakchunni or any other type of ghosts!! :( But the place definitely holds an air of intrigue.

Can this be interpreted as a poltergeist effect :P

Perhaps, even the spirits are facing the loss of habitat and are on the verge of extinction?? :( Thanks to all ghost hunters flocking to these ruins!! (yups that includes me and am contradicting the very purpose of this blog :P). Never mind the weird theory, ghosts are ghosts and they will drive us, humans, off if they need to protect their home, and isn't that what we seek, the thrill of fear!! If you are the daredevil adrenaline junkie, this is THE PLACE for you, BUT only after sunset and before sunrise, you might just get lucky enough to romance the ghosts.

I asked a night guard if he ever chanced to witness any paranormal activities during his night rounds. His answer was "Sab Hawa mein hai. Kabhi Kisi ka samaye kharab hota hai toh shayad kuch dikh jaaye." (It's all in the air. If someone is in for a bad time, he might get to see something."  Well, many have claimed to have felt the paranormal presence at the fort. The internet is full of such stories. A program on the Discovery Channel even went on record to say, it is the most haunted place in India. Rocky and Mayur's show on haunted places described Bhangarh as an eerie place. Giving a gruesome example of their experiences in Bhangarh, Mayur says, "While we were shooting at night in Bhangarh, many times we heard very high pitch screams from the mountains. Once we saw a blurred figure of a woman walking around. Though it was only for a few seconds we could easily make out that something is there and we can not deny their existence," adds Mayur. Excerpt from an article in the Times of India. That reminds me of my High School St. Thomas. I think St. Thomas is one of the most haunted places on Earth. (Personal experience - shall bring the stories later).

The Archeological survey has a board at the entrance forbidding anyone from entering the premises before sunrise and after sunset. A clarification from the department was, that they prefer people away after sunset because this fort is very close to the Sariska Animal Reserve and wild animals often wander off from the forest to the fort. Not to forget a million snakes. Rajasthan is home to 30 varieties of snakes including the great python and the 4 venomous Cobra, Krait, Russel Viper, and Pud. The Aravali terrain also gives shelter to the deadly scorpions. I guess these are as scary if not more than the ghosts

Well ghosts or no ghosts, this place is worth a visit. The journey is every bit haunting, from Sariska to Bhangarh........from the past to present. Every ruin echoes a time gone by. Some voices are left behind to tell their stories and when we hear those whispers, a chill runs down the spine.

LOCATION

Country: India
State: Rajasthan
Closest City:  Jaipur

HOW TO REACH

Bhangarh is located approximately 95 km from Jaipur and approximately 300 km from New Delhi. If you are a hardcore bag packer,  take the bus. Buses are available from Delhi and Jaipur.

Or take a personal vehicle. It is possible to make it a day trip but if you have a couple more days to spare, you might make the trip more interesting with Sariska Tiger Reserve, Alwar, Abhaneri, and Ajabgarh included in the itinerary. (Click for Abhaneri post)

From Jaipur, there is a short direct route to Bhangarh through Gopalgarh (I have no idea about the road condition), the second option is NH11 via Dausa. The road to Dausa is a 4-lane highway. Dausa to Bhangarh is through small villages.

From Delhi, the route follows Gurgaon - Bhiwadi - Alwar - Sariska (going around the reserve) - Thanagazhi - Pratapgarh - Ajabgarh, and finally Bhangarh.

There are hardly any petrol pumps, restaurants or lodging options once you cross Sariska. Keep your petrol stock, food stock, and even a spare tire. Carrying a torch would be handy if you are the inquisitive explorer in search of the real ghost:)

WEATHER and WHAT TO WEAR

It's mostly warm. Preferably wear closed shoes, as mentioned scorpions and snakes have their abode in the ruins.

BEST TIME TO VISIT 

Anytime is a good time to visit. We visited in mid-March and the weather was pleasant.

WHERE TO STAY and WHAT TO EAT

Sariska Reserve has a hotel that should be booked in advance. There are heritage hotels and budget hotels in Alwar. That's the closest lodging available. Preferably carry your own food. No food options at the fort except for an ice cream cart.

The Journey in Photos...

Pratapgarh

It was quite a long 8-hour journey through small hamlets, villages, and deserted forts. Every fort gave the impression of the richness and grandeur of the 'once' Rajputana States. Each is as haunted as Bhangarh. History in ways does give goosebumps.

A Shaky Pic of Ajabgarh (I use an outdated antique digital camera :P)

And more forts

The route is beautiful, flanked by red flowering trees.  A small stream runs parallel to the road and other yellow trees adorn the landscape. I didn't get an opportunity to stop our vehicle to click the pics due to time constraints. All the more reason why one must visit these places with more time to spare

The entrance gate to the market and temple complex leads to the fortified palace gate

This fort was built by Raja Bhagwant Das, King of Amer and father of Mughal Emperor Akbar's General Man Singh for his second son Madho Singh in the mid 16/17th century. Legend says this small state was wiped out in one night. There are two popular stories to support this theory.

One of the many temples in the complex

Story 1

Madho Singh was a disciple of Guru Balu Nath. Guru Balu Nath permitted Madho Singh to build his fort with the condition that Bhangarh could grow only to a point where its shadow would not touch his ashram. It was the Guru's way of teaching his pupils to not cross the limits of power and riches. 

The Shiv Temple

As years have gone by, the King and his descendants forgot the condition. The Bhangarh fort expanded and one day it reached a height from where its shadow touched Guru Balu Nath in meditation. The angry hermit laid a curse on the kingdom, and overnight it perished, never to be revived again. It is said every single living being died and perhaps those untimely deaths left the place haunted.

The temple on the Top: Some say it's the Bhairon Baba temple. Some say that was the watch tower while some say it was the place of worship of the tantric Shinghia

Story 2

Ratnavati was the beautiful daughter of Madho Singh's descendant. Smitten by her charm A Tantric named Singhia tries to win her by offering her a special oil on which he casts some love spells (kind of the love potion in Mid-Summer Night's Dream). Having known the tantric's intentions, the princess throws the oil container. The container breaks! breaking (literally) the tantric's heart. The dying tantric curses the princess that her kingdom would perish in a night. Soon after, Ajabgarh attacks Bhangarh. Bhangarh is destroyed and Princess Ratnavati dies. Locals believe Ratnavati will be born again and shall come back to revive the glories of Bhangarh. Well so far Ratnavati has not reincarnated and the Tantric's soul haunts the fort. Reminds me of a certain Telugu movie.

The 7 storied Palace within an inner fort

The Aravalli Range

The Peepal trees: In India, it's an age-old belief (of those who believe in the existence of spirits) that ghosts reside on Peepal trees (Ficus religiosa) It is said that this tree is the staircase to heaven. Those who have sinned are not allowed to exit to the other world and they hang from the Peepal tree's branches as ghosts. :P Honestly, with roots like that, they are bound to scare people. And to think there's a ghost in my backyard :P sends me shivers.

The Chattri (Memorial tomb which does not have the grave of the deceased)

Like all princely states, Bhangarh went through its ups and downs. Mughal Siege, slow decline, and then famine. Bhangarh breathed its last in the 18th century after the famine.

The ruins of the village within the outer fort

The part of the village that's still inhabited

The last gate / The first gate...The end to begin again.